Chitubox exposure time reddit. Then it would change layers and repeat.
Chitubox exposure time reddit. the file wouldn't work.
Chitubox exposure time reddit 05 Exposure Time: 2s Bottom Exposure Time: 40s Bottom Lift Distance: 6 Lifting Distance: 6 Bottom Lift Speed: 180 mm/min Lifting Speed: 180 mm/min Bottom Retract Speed: 240 mm/min Retract Speed: 240mm/min What should I change them to? Setup a Photon M3 Max in Chitubox. 000 (just changed it) Transition Layer Count: 5 Transition Type: Linear Transition Time Decrement: 9. Temperature isn’t ideal going from 24-14c. 03mm layer height, ideal exposure is 2. However you can print the resin benchmark test print with the infinity symbol. S. 05mm *bottom lift: 5mm *bottom layer count: 6 *lift distance: 2mm *exposure time: 6s *bottom lift speed: 48mm/min *bottom exposure time: 80s *lift speed 150mm/min *light off delay: 1s Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now FOR CHITUBOX 1. 05 Lift Speed (mm/min): 25. And the time on the display isn’t accounting for this either, it’s estimated correctly for a 2. 100 Bottom Layer Count: 2 Exposure Time: 2. Then add 10% to you normal exposure time and run your 1st print and see how it comes out. 25S exposure time. Changing exposure times can help a bit - but it may not lower the time required as much as you'd think - I was surprised when I switched from 2. I'm new and unsure where to start looking to adjust. 02 and reduce the standard exposure time by about a third and go from there. 05mm Lift distance 8mm Lift speed 180 mm/min Retract speed 180 mm/min Never had an issue prints flawlessly I'm quite sure "bottom" means "for the bottom layers" like in "bottom exposure time". Currently, I have it set to 7 bottom layers and 35 second bottom exposure time. So I tried Chitubox, tried to replicate the settings used Lychee, put my models and print the stuff. Could it be from default exposure time of bottom layers? I have a feeling it is from the firmware update I had to do. I changed the exposure to 50sec on the bottom layers and 3. I use Chitubox and the default settings for the resin with only the exposure time upped and the anti-aliasing turned on. 000 Rest Time After Retract: 0. 000 Rest Time After Lift: 0. The whole bottom of the print was paper-thin where it is usually quite thick and rigid from the overexposing and transition layers. I started using the bottom layer compensation in chitu to get rid of the elephants foot. ctb back into chitubox just to change the exposure time will the file still print correctly? or do i have to go back and reslice the original STLs from scratch? General Question Edit - this isn’t an estimated time issue, this is the layer print time changing from 2. Long story I appreciate the help guys. I cleaned the vat with the printer utility, re-leveled it according to the documentation Nothing works. However grey levels are ignored and AA4 requires at least 2 seconds, and AA8 at least 3. 5s instead of 1s. I had to up my fine support diameter from 0. 500 It seems that Lychee Slicer isn't unique in requiring the print settings to be adjusted on the printer itself. 67mm/second and Lift Distance of 6mm, which is what I expected because that's how I saved the file. I'd go with a bit higher exposure time and work down, until you start hitting failures, then go back a step or two. 8 second exposure with no problems. I’ve recently switched to the most recent version of Chitubox (V2. I find 30 second bottom exposure makes water washable resin too brittle and hard to remove from plate. Instead of being 10x10x10mm cubes, they were 10. Look at the exposure times vs the older Mars printers and it's about 1/4 that time. 5 seconds, but they were exactly the same. photons file from ChiTuBox. cfg file. So you would look at which exposure turned out the best (not over exposed or under exposed). As for the times, you can probably get away with lower layer exposure times, on the normal layers. Leveling: I used the "Flint Reed" leveling method. I have Sm4K which uses . 75 or 3. 3 failed prints from sliced prints from chitubox. Printing a somewhat large piece gives me time estimate of 12 hours 44min inside Chitubox pro. Im using Chitubox Pro and printing on Mars 2 Pro. Let me know if this helps: Too much bed adhesion: The base settings are way too overkill. I have been printing with no issues with Elegoo 8K resin using the recommended settings from Elegoo (35s for bottom exposure time, 3. 006 tolerance in x and y. 8 with 3DMaterials and the time didn't decrease by that much. 05mm Bottom Layer Count: 6 Exposure Time: 2. Then exposure time for layer 7 to layer 12 will gradually decrease until it stops at the pre-set "Exposure Time. 5 seconds. But I can't figure out a way to quickly change the exposure time when I need to dial in exposure settings for new resin. i. 5s exposure times and bottom layers anywhere from 20s-40s. 8s Bottom Exposure Time: 30s Do you use lychee or chitubox to slice We are Reddit's primary hub for all things modding, from troubleshooting Hey guys! Simple (I hope) question; is it possible to designate different layers, within ChituBox, as having different exposure times? I'm using 0. 5 for layer exposure. increasing the exposure time of the bottom layers helps increase the bond strength between the printing model and the printing platform Machine - Longer10 Slicing - Chitubox Resin - elegoo standard photopolymer UV wave 405nm Current settings - *Layer hight: . It's on their own slicer, forgot what it's called, but if you glfind the ultra on chitubox, go through the settings and you'll see the fast ones and can put those in Lychee. 8 was working great with the skin color resin, I find the grey requires a tiny bit longer. Yesterday it finally arrived, iam a FDM veteran but today was the day i dipped my toes in Resin for the first time. this seems ridiculously high. Yes I could reslice but I don't save projects and it's a simple tweak. . a. k. 05 Exposure Time: 1. I restarted a print last night shortly after commenting. You couldn’t have two files with different print settings in the same Chitubox project. Anycubic Photon Mono 2 - Chitubox default settings Burn in Lift Speed 60 > 240 Burn in Retract Speed 120 > 300 Normal Lift Speed 60 > 240 Normal Retract Speed 120 > 300 Ok, similar issue. That gives me the best results for the calibration tests Reply reply More replies More replies I'm using these settings:Bottom exposure: 35 light off display 2 exposure time 3. with Siraya to 0. 580 Waiting Mode During Printing: Restin Rest Time Before Lift: 0. 8s. 5 secs (per uncle jesse) I noticed on our subreddit, some people do 1. 5sec for updated firmware) off-time. So I'm hunting for the right exposure time since I failed the cone of calibration test with Chitubox default settings which was 3. thats all im looking to do really. Different SLA/DLP/LCD 3D printers have different cure times for resins. 9mm to 1. 05mm Bottom Layer Count: 2 Transition layer: 5 Bottom Exposure time: 35 seconds Bottom wait before cure: 1s Bottom wait after cure: 0s Bottom wait after lift: 0s Bottom Lift distance D1: 3 mm Can't be provided, they're different for different printers and different between regular & mono screens, and can be different for different resins too such as transparent vs opaque. Exposure time depends on the resin. 02mm layer height; that's not that low. But basically take your layer height down to . exposure time, rotation? If you are new to reddit, please read the guidelines on reddiquette, self promotion, and spam. 5s Transition Layer Count: 0 Transition Type: Linear Light-Off Delay: 0. 35mm), they should come off quite readily. 9. 5s Bottom Lift Distance: 2 + 6mm I use the following in chitubox: However, when I check mid print on the m3 max the settings are much lower for lift/retract speed and the exposure time is like 30-40 per layer when it should only be the bottom as far as I undertand. But my concern is more about tip not sticking to the model when they are that thin with such exposure time. Hey there. 50s BE and 3. I took all the printing parameters and did the math and confirmed that Chitubox estimate is completely wrong in 1. Posted by u/Batman189 - 3 votes and 15 comments After doing some of these test prints with the Anycubic Gray resin, it looks like the 9s exposure time in Chitubox was waaay over exposing this resin. At first I thought it was my excessive exposure times, so I've printed a few test cubes at 10, 9, 7 and 5. Start with 1. Exposure time is short than configured undesired patterns appear after a short while of exposure this combination not only fails your print but also possibly give you tons of tiny solid particles in your VAT! I believe it is firmware problem. 05mm. For 50um layer height, I went from 20 bottom layers @ 30 sec exposure to 6 bottom layers @ 12 sec exposure. Also now using 75mm/m lift+retract speed for regular layers, and lowered the wait time to 0. I counted the time between the lifting intervalls and its around 45s. Exposure Times: 5 Lift Distance: 5 Lift Speed (mm/min): 80 Bottom Exposure Time: 50 Layer Height 0. Chitubox AA started working for me after I upgraded to 3. But again it depends on resin type and color. 5-10. Wash the print (no extra curing is necessary). 53 s Light off: 0. Maybe it depends on the printer, maybe both Chitubox and Lychee interpret stages order the same way. 9 Short conclusion: when printing . I'll try your settings anyway. Also compare with other monochrome printers to see how far off these high speed exposures are. Also why only 2/3 of the smaller parts printed? The exposure time is generally 10x your normal exposure time to ensure good adhesion of the layers contacting the moving build plate. Save as a new file. 02 layer height to print some tanks at the moment, but these tanks are on supports that have them elevated off the bed somewhat (they're at 45*), it'd be handy if I could perhaps print the layers between the 5 initial layers and where the tanks I could clearly see from the failure that it was caused by 2. A couple pro tips I have learned over time too: Keep the water clean. I propose going for ChituBox because it is a superior program and wow stopped supporting Sparkstudio. Apply light-off delay (a. Exposure time for your mono should be somewhere close to 2 seconds +/- up to 1 second depending on resin and conditions. 2. 05), bottom layer # (8), exposure time (3 s), bottom exposure time (40 s), and transition layer count (10). Chinese UI translations are not always easy to understand. There is a "slosh" that happens due to the build plate displacement. 02 layer height at 1. 5 installed fine. 5s off time. 22mm to 0. I would say keep the 25s. Bottom layer count: 12. Layer Height: 0. 2 seconds and base exposure of 30 seconds (Could probably reduce base layer time but it works fine for now). 0 + 4. I'll keep the naming. My current settings: Bottom Exposure Time: 60s Exposure Time: 10s Lift Distance (mm): 6 Lift Speed (mm/min): 80 Layer Height: 0. Load that new file onto a USB. LCD, FEP, even the LEDs on a long enough time scale. These being: Layer Height: 0. Ok, let's see in Chitubox. 9/ PRINTER FIRMWARE ISSUES, Layer height 0. " So if you look at the photo, layer 7 will get 38-second light exposure , layer 8 will get 32-second exposure , and it goes on until layer 13 , where the rest of the layer (Normal layers) will get exposed to light for 2 seconds. e (Bottom Layer count ) X ( Layer Height) = Raft Thickness Exposure time (s) The print quality for each 3D resin is also affected by the light power and the curing or exposure time. 3 second normal layer exposure time, even at layer 12 of 28, the printer was still does anyone mind sharing their chitubox settings? i'm using the elegoo 8k resin. Ratio between Chitubox estimation time and reel time depends of your printer. I ended up with 3. 2 secs and the bottom exposure setting also being doubled in chitubox. Also your movement speed is way to high. 8s regular exposure time is what we've been using for Phrozen Aqua Grey, but we are doing 0. Prints are completely flat and stay stuck to FEP film. but when i opened chitubox and saw it had more settings it confused me as it had the dual stage thing. After an exposure, the printer will move the print bed and wait the designated amount of time before exposing the next image. 9 exposure time, and 25 second bottom layer, yours will be different by a bit. Layer height (0. Hope this helps! I'm at 2. After a bed leveling with the stock card but putting pressure on the plate and tightening the screws slowly and alternating (1/4 turn on front, 1/4 turn on side repeat til tight) everything seems to be sticking and printing this time. In my examination of prints, most resins cure too unevenly to achieve <10um surface's. Pretty much title. I'm having the same issues in Voxeldance, Chitubox and Lycheeslicer. does that seem right? I have been using the default exposure time which is 2. The trick to minimise print time is to minimise the height of the printed model. Since I printed in the basement and turn on my heater the first small prints started to work from time to time. In my situation, on Photon S it's around +33% and on Mono SE it's around +23%. I don't know if it's on chitubox's end or the printer's end, but everytime I print it seems to add too many bottom layers. Edit the build plate size in the printer settings of chitubox (to match the size of the M3 Premium 7680x4320) Follow your normal workflow: Import Files to Chitubox build plate configure supports File Menu "Save As" (Save the entire project as an stl file -with supports) Exposure time depends on your printer, UV power setting and ambient temp. comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment New printer here. 5s to 2s as well. If you print and only the supports appear but the dice don't, you need to increase exposure time. Probably 2-2. When I go to slice the models for printing I have to manually change the exposure time and other settings (I have the Mar3 as the default print) Is there anything I can do to save the settings as I want? The problem is i need higher exposure time on layer 1 than on layer 2. You use the resin vat instead of the paper. 0 Bottom Retract: 10. 050 mm bottom layer count: 6 Exposure Time: 2. I HATE lychee for whatever reason, But the settings are perfect, but as you can see some of the values are a bit different, making it hard to transfer the settings. 141. do you have any idea why is this happening. Exposure set at 5. At "8" in theory you could produce a . I use 8-10 seconds on my photon S. The Bottom Exposure Time applies to the first number of layers set by this parameter: Exposure Time: Exposure time of normal print layers: Bottom Exposure Time: Set the exposure time of the bottom layers. Now my settings. I use a 45s bottom exposure because I would rather have less failed prints For making resin profiles, use UVTools, it has an excellent exposure time calibration, as well as many other calibrations that can be super useful. Bottom exposure time: 45s I can't speak for that resin, but I am getting successful prints with Rich-Opto resin using the folling settings on Chitubox; Layer hight 0. I actually switched back to chitubox when the printer first came out as lycheee wasn't any good with it. Various factors can impact the final result, resin characteristics, or strength, more specifically, can affect the result noticeably. I've been working on dialing in my photon mono x's exposure because my prints were coming out inaccurately sized. It's wasted time that in a gcode file would only take a second to fix. Compared to Elegoo official settings (Didn't work for me) I only changed the values in green. 05 Retract Speed (mm/s): 150 Bottom Layer Count: 8 Resin I am using: Water washable 3D Printing UV Resin GT-WR001 from Geeetech Layer Height 0. 05mm (1-3 in manual), 25s bottom exposure (20-40 in manual), 6 bottom layers (3-6 in manual). Bottom layer count to 12 and the bottom exposure time to 60. Garb any stl. ctb and use that for setting up the exposure time finder. (For whatever reason chitubox won't load the test file so no network sending) and print that file. Since the exposure time is printer and resin dependant i thought i'd be helpfull and post my results with the cones of calibration. " Normal Exposure doesn't affect how well the model sticks to the plate, Bottom Exposure does. Half of the right side settings are defaulted to +0mm or +0mm/min, I've never seen that on a resin printer's default before. I’m pretty sure the rest I use the defaults. However, it is definitely not half the exposure time. The same number of layers, with the same exposure time and same layer height took about 3 hours with Lychee, which is a huge difference. 4 secs to around 7 secs per layer. 01 Bottom count 5 Exposure time 0. 0 not saving the correct Bottom Layer exposure time and/or Transition Layer settings. i have one question, my slicer is giving me (example) 1 hour and 55 min of printing time, but when the file gets transfered to the printer, the printing time rises to 2hr and 25 min. to 150% from I think 110% default in Chitubox, so the bottom layer covers When I started the print, the display on my Mono said roughly that same time, I don't remember the exact minutes but definitely 7 hours and change. Test print in center comes out flaweless Exposure time is just over half the time to print on an S and less than half the time of a print with a mono printer, the greater time is taken up with movement which both Lychee and Chitubox do a poor job of calculating this (particularly with the Mono 4k) hence why both have print time compensation settings. the file wouldn't work. Temperature wise, you’re fine. "instead of changing to 3 sec it slowly started reducing exposure time from 55 sec. Anycubic water washable I use settings On halot mage non pro using chitubox Exposure time 3s Bottom exposure 40s Layer height 0. (Chitubox v1. Two successful rook test prints. 1sec. Then it would change layers and repeat. ctb. But I've been using chitubox, I love the UI, the tools, and the feel of chitubox. Best print resolution I got was with 4 seconds exposure and I may even be able to go down to 3. 6 bottom lifting distance 6mm motor speed 2mm Doesn't matter what support I am using, heavy, medium, light it still does this. Any advice is appreciated Photon MonoX Support Help (Chitubox) - Anycubic UV Black - Exposure time 2. Does anyone know what the hell happened? I'll add my chitubox settings as a screenshot. Slicer: Chitubox Resin Temperature: 86 F Layer Height: 0. Also maybe it's just me but files take 3-4 mins to slice and about as long to save. However, the next print needs to be even finer like 0,03 and as I read on the internet, I would have to calibrate the exposure time for this layer height again. Grab that . Hi, first time playing the settings on chitubox "print" settings, just bought the ELEGOO Standard LCD UV 405nm BLACK UK-GYE-3D-062 and wasn't sure where to start with exposure time etc! any help would be greatly appreciated (this is for 28mm scale models if thats important) For example I use a bottom exposure time of 15 seconds and 2. Help is much appreciated From what im finding online, looks like the mono might have a minimum of 4. ctb and the time estimate is off by 100% (actual time is doubled). The Chitubox 1. This will give you a baseline to start. Edit: Nevermind. The off-time value being left at '1' on ChituBox will default the printer to run its standard 4. 3 seconds exposure for regular layers, 30s bottom layer, and I like to print a little slower for safety. 0. "I use a 3. The default bottom exposure time is 50 seconds in CHITUBOX. Is there a way to do this with the Mars? One of my first major issues was getting exposure right and too much bed adhesion. Each bottle or resin I use, it has its won settings time on the side and I follow those and yet they still stick to the Vat bed. 2), and I’ve found that every print fails- I’ve used the same settings that have been working with 1. 2 of my 6 parts printed, but the others didn't. Once you get close the your fine tune settings set bottom layer exposure at x10 your normal exposure. I'm pretty sure the exposure settings come from Chitubox. to 4 sec. 3 s Normal Exposure time. Also some of the other settings are dramatically different from anycubics own recommendations such as an exposure time of 1. Exposure Time is the amount of time that the light source will expose each layer during printing. Because, I don't think this is possible with most resins unless you've done some insane levels of exposure time + settings tuning. 8 Bottom Exposure Time: 12 Light Off Delay: 0 Bottom Light Off Delay: 0 Bottom Lift Distance: 7mm Lifting Distance: 7mm Bottom Lift Speed: 60 Lifting Speed: 60 Retract Speed: 180 I have the 8k version of that resin which is what I assume you’re using. With tighter FEP and less viscus (runnier resin) you can lower the lift hight some to save a lot of time. If you have any other recommendations for slicers (I use Chitubox) or the printer to speed up the print time, I would really appreciate it! (P. You can work around that issue and there’s a separate setting for both normal and burn-in if you need it. The time for a large bust at 50um with 2500 layers that you state (4-5 hours) is reasonably realistic. 5 for about a year, but when I try to print a file sliced in V2. So I don't use chitubox anymore so I can't tell you the keyboard keys, but what you need is a micro/mini support, which is like a pole, as opposed to a full support. In Chitubox I can set it when I save a . They're saying 12s layers @ . If i load a sliced file or a . Off time: 0 Bottom Layers: 8 Bottom Exposure Time: 30s Anti Alas: 2 Grey level and Image Blure: 0 Z lif distance: 5mm/s Z lift speed: 3mm/s Z retract speed: 4 mm/s Copied from one of the comments above :) Also, if you want to go for faster prints, I recommend 0. anyone use this resin and have a good exposure time. 0 lift distance: 8. If the details come all muddied after you wash the minis, then you have too much exposure time. Chitubox 1. Sirya tech's import into chitubox has an exposure time of 2. Is this a function of over exposure? Next you can fine-tune the normal layer exposure time by using the area at the bottom which looks like two sets of lines and grooves. 5. 6s NE does seem long for gray, check your power setting. The ideal print has: The same number and size of pins (circles) as voids The same number and width of lines as slots I could probably change the UV% from 70% to 100% and decrease exposure from 2. The only reason that Chitubox supports many of the different formats is their parent company CBD also owns Chitu which makes the motherboards and Chitubox were contracted to make the slicers in most cases, normally by grafting on the new printer format to Chitubox, like with the Longer Orange 4k, by way of a . Increase the exposure time if the raft won't stick to the build plate. Have you found a way around that? This is with firmware 1. 25s intervals My current Settings, I took the default Saturn 2 settings in Chitubox and reduced the Bottom Exposure Time from 35s to 25s and played around with the regular Exposure Time. With 3 bottom layers at 30 seconds (extreme test to get past bottom layers to normal printing), and 0 transition layers and 3. bottom exposure time should be higher than usual (this part is critical) If the your first print fails increase the bottom exposure time and try again ( thanks to MechatailsX for pointing that out ) If you use a layer height of 0. 1s. It was using 16% of my CPU the whole time. My build plate is scratched up and it increases adhesion. ctb back into chitubox just to change the exposure time will the file You just kinda get used to everything being consumable. I realize that the gap under the plate is very very thin so that will change the nature of that wave but I wondered if I could get more detail from a resin that isn't in motion while its being exposed. Bottom layer Settings are as follows: Layer height: 0. Theoretically a shorter exposure time produces a thinner result, but what if the exposure time is not enough to guarentee the strength of the cured part? It will easily broken by the pulling force from the FEP. You might be confusing the screen test menu for making sure your LCD is working. Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now If i load a sliced file or a . 1mm Bottom layers 1 Bottom exposure 40s Normal exposure 3s Transition layers 12 (this is where the main base layers end for my print) Light off time 2s Bottom 1 lift 7mm @ 60mm/m (1mm/s) Bottom 2 lift 10mm @ 180mm/m (3mm/s) Normal 1 lift 5mm @ 60mm/m (1mm when i was using PW i read that lowering z lift and z lower is better being dropped abotu 30 percent in cooler conditions, and changing the exposre time by abotu 30 percent more for the bottom 4 or 6 layers. Both videos helped explain what over exposure looks like and what to look for in the validation. 729 subscribers in the Chitubox community. for context on my mono X I was using 2 second exposure time. also it is quote cold here so i know that also makes things hardere bed and such. this is with chitubox and my Saturn 4 ultra. 04 Bottom Layer Count: 4 Transition Layer Count: 0 Exposure Time: 2. Changing that time will make your print stick more/less. I noticed the unofficial elegoo mars settings call for exposure time of 6. Reply reply Hi, I was wondering does anyone have recommendations for heavier chitubox settings? (I’m printing a statue scaled up to 14inches and am having failure after failure. This is the most important setting to overcome the “blooming” effect. 8. I left Chitubox a long time ago now. Exposure Time: the time determined from step 6 Save and print the sliced model (I recommend saving it with the exposure time in the file name). 6s exposure time which seems pretty long, but if I tryanything shorter, my prints are rubbery and tend to not stick to thebuild plate. In the bottom layers printing process, the speed of the printing platform moves away from the printing surface each time Chitubox Manual. 3s for the blend I am using. Hey y'all, I just got Elegoo Mars3 and have been trying to figure out Chitubox Pro. Its still high, just not so much. I'm also using 8s exposure with 0. I just reinstalled windows 10 22H2 and was reinstalling my programs when Chitubox got stuck at 85% for about an hour before I canceled the install by ending the task. If I used a 30 second bottom exposure, the part would become stuck to the build plate and shatter. 5 seconds of exposure is still somehow producing way overexposed prints. Next, with anycubic resin, start at a regular exposure time of 14s and reduce from test to test. just noticed on the bottle of elegoo water washable resin, it says the recommended exposure time is 8 seconds. 02mm layers. Orange has very little support for spec available other than the chitubox profile that comes on the drive with the printer so having this validation test and your guys help has been everything! Bottom exposure is the very first layer. Hello, I'm trying to switch over to Lychee from Chitubox because I generally prefer Lychee's UI. Validation Matrixes: Exposure Times ranging from 2-3s at . Like the other commenter said, do an exposure test to find out the actual time that's appropriate for your printer/resin combo. 5 second normal exposure times. What mind of extra work dude? After Chitubox I’m importing the stl into UV Tools and them exporting out from there as the Creality format. 5s for exposure time) I have found for 0. If you use Chitubox you can set the number of transition layers and how they are calculated, along with other settings. Hello,new to 3d printing. I can't seem to get the exposure time correct. Finally, if exposure of normal and bottom layers is calibrated and you still have the issue, you can set non-zero Transition Layer Count in Chitubox settings (Print tab), then it will generate few transition layers gradually reducing the exposure. That much overexposure likely roughly doubled your overall print time while washing out any smaller details the model might have had, and wiping out any semblance of calibration on the xy axis. Note that there is also a difference between the time announced by the printer and the reel time. For reference, I use an Anycubic Photon Mono SE. The reason for this is that while a 4k mono screen is strong enough to cure at 2s, it won't cure strong enough to survive the much higher fep adhesion force from the larger vat. i've upgraded my printer from the mars 2 to the saturn 3 ultra and i'm bit out my depth with my Chitubox settings, having issues with sticking to the bed and such. I'm assuming it's an issue with my largely default supports from Chitu. 6mm in the X and Y direction. Putting in a 5s light off delay in Chitubox does seem to get pretty close, but will need to see if using the pmwo with the 5s delay shows the same 8hr 30min time in the printer or if itll be 14hr 40min like photon workshop estimates if i put a 5s off time in there. I'm guessing the time calculation was based off the exposure time of the first few base layers and not taking into account the lower values for the rest of the print. 3mm, and contact diameter from 0. 5sec (6. Looking at that you should: Increase your bottom exposure (inferior) to something like 60-100 seconds. 7 secs vs 3. On my Mono 4k at 65% UV power and 0. 3. 5 s Bottom lift distance: 8. from layer 10 to 70" By default Photon Workshop slicer has added 60 transition layers. I also use 2 second pause time (it used to be light of delay but is called something else now) before lift and cut the lift speed to 90 from the default 180 in chitubox. Feel free to ASK questions, POST cool prints, DISCUSS hardware designs, and SHARE anything you think is relevant to resin-based printing. 03mm layers, not 0. Edit: Have now set the base layer exposure to 20s, which has worked wonderfully when printing large parts & some test prints. will report to Anycubic. Chitubox print help. 0 Retract Speed(mm/min): 80. Initial lift speed below 50. I'm using an Elegoo Saturn with their standard 8k grey resin and the data sheet (as well as chitubox defaults) suggest 30 second bottom with 2. The default is 6 seconds in ChiTuBox. 5s. Is there a similar, fast way to set file exposure in Lychee? Would recommend lowering the base exposure. Running a 2. When the normal layer exposure time is perfect the lines and grooves in the top part of this area should look like they'd fit perfectly into the lines and grooves in the bottom part of this area and vice versa. and a bottom exposure of 35s. 050 (greyed out can't change) Retract Speed: 210 With those settings I have printed a ton of prints with few fails. I think anyone getting away with 2. I am currently testing Elegoo WWR ceramic Grey and I am probably going for around ~3. I gladly pay for Lychee Pro slicer. Leveled the bed numerous times. However, midway through my first layer, the time changed to 21+ hours. I did the exposure time tests. 5 Layer Height: 0. The print came out good, but it took like 7 hours for 1800ish layers (0. 8 to 2. Its still about 2-3 hours over what ChituBox estimated. I found that a bit less than 2 seconds works on my Pro2 for Elegoo Grey ABS-Like and about 1. 1 did estimation better. Would maybe start with that sheet cutting the exposure times in half for the mini. Dial in with the exposure tile then fine tune with cones and starship. Everything was done in the native slicer of anycubic (Photon workshop). The printer is brand new, only did one testprint on it. I find Chitubox always underestimates the print time. 2s is doing even smaller 0. Subreddit dedicated to creating a community around users of SLA and other resin-based 3D printing systems. Exposure Time: 16 <-- This is the only number that is not default per the Chitubox premade LCD-N Bottom Exp. I don't know of a setting on the machine that allows you to set the exposure time. 03mm), with an exposure time of 1. 8 seconds exposure and the model is hollowed with 1. Just use these settings as a base, print a figure and see the results. 05 layer thickness and 2. A community of support, with the hope of being fully supportive to support everything. 5 seconds in chitubox and prints seem fine for the most part other than lots of failed supports. It was way too much of a difference for the problem to be the exposure time. What do you think? My current settings are what you'd expect: Layer Height: 0. Then to the printer. Using an ld-002h from creality , it has a mono screen. 1 beta has both Mage printers. This is because a normal support needs to read there and then have a tapering head and the angle is just too steep and too narrow. And that slosh lasts longer than the exposure time. 03 layers. 05 mm then the bottom layer count will be 20. My print times are double what chitubox is estimating on the actual printer and I believe this is the reason. 2, I just get a paper thin bottom layer, and a few parts printing around the edge of the build plate with Jul 8, 2021 ยท When I slice an item, Chitubox shows 3 hour/20 g (consumption), but this does not converge, when I print the final result is about 40 % higher than expected, this in both cases (time and resin consumption). I would start at a higher layer time like 4 to 6ish seconds and work down until your test print looks good. Using exposure compensation, the exposure time will gradually transition from your bottom layer exposure time to your normal exposure time, as opposed to (in your example) layers 1-15 being 30 seconds and layers I played around with nano dlp a long time ago and it had one where you would put a bunch of squares, and each square would be exposed for a different number of seconds. The bottom ones you can leave at that. Anyone else have this problem? 1. Most of my fails come from positioning and supports. On the other parts of the model, if you have dial in your exposure setting and the contact diameter of the supports are not too thick (in my case, <0. You can only load one photon file because the photon file contains the print settings such as exposure time and layer height. I setup my supports and orientation in PrusaSlicer (Because I'm used to it, as an SL1 owner), export STL with supports then bring those into Chitubox to slice. Frustratingly, regardless of what I set in Chitubox for bottom layers, transition layers, exposure time, etc. 5s to 3. Time: 180 Lift Dist. I don't know why, it knows all of the timing settings such as the pause time between each layer. Exposure Time: 1. Start with the data sheets from the resin manufacturer. 05 so 6 on the mini? I've been using Elagoo Water Washable resin and the setting suggested in the Sonic Mini manual: 2s layer exposure @ . Ideally you do minimum exposure necessary. Here's my settings in Chitubox: Layer Height: . 0 For whatever it is worth, I am printing the same goblin mini while I try to narrow down the problem. 8mm thickness. I have a Mars 3 and I'm using Chitubox. Is there like a manual g-code edit option for this? Recently Got an M5S, upgrading from a mono X. 5s normal exposure time but I'm running into an issue - my feudal Guard are not fitting together - the pegs are too big for the holes. I use a 40/180 lift speed in chitubox, and I set the lift height to 8. 8s exposure time with 0. 5 seconds for Siraya Tech "Simple" smokey black. I am also using the Chitubox Saturn 2 profile which works great. Elegoo’s standard photopolymer resin with Chitubox. 0 the recommended exposure time is also questionable, I've had better prints with a bottom exposure of 50s and a regular exposure time of 4s. Then you select 0,1 mm and raise the plate three times. Supernote is a co-design product with our users. If use same exposure setting on layer 2 as on layer 1, i'm afraid the base will overcure and detach from the plate. Discover the elegance of the Supernote, an e-notebook designed for distraction-free writing, reading, and annotating. 85 Bottom Exposure Time: 25 Bottom/Lifting Speed/Lifting Speed: 50 Everything else is default Chitubox Saturn profile. About 2 hours in and I've realized that my printer is actually exposing each layer for around 25 seconds each! What the hell is going on? How did you get the conclusion? I just saw a video by 3dprintingpro regarding high bottom exposure times and prematurely burning out the screen. 7 seconds exposure time probably due to limitations with the performance of the Mono X hardware, so the UV power will have to be lowered. I just discovered the hard way (several failed prints) that the printer blatantly ignores all settings regarding exposure time etc from the cxdlp files. 5 Slicer) Room temperature is around 22°c. I just printed out an entire plate of models with 0. I’ve been doing a 35 second exposure for the bottom 4 layers then a 3 second exposure for the rest. Thanks for the info! It's my own way of doing. While I do use the hot / warm water method, I usually only use it at the base of the model where the supports are the thickest. As for bottom exposure time, it's recommended to make it around 8-12 times longer than your normal layer cure time. 500 Bottom Exposure Time: 60. 8 seconds, which seems wayy to high. I understand that resin consumption can be a little more relative, but time should converge. 025mm. After setting up a chitubox profile I found online and running like 3 or 4 of these test pieces, 0. This works. Exposure time: 2s. rest time after retract or wait before print) setting. ) I’m using the Elegoo Jupiter at 2. The problem is I roughly calibrated the exposure time now for 0,05mm and printing an actual useful piece now with this layer height. 0 +2. 05 layer height 2. I've had zero failed prints so far. 4. Use the compensation feature that is available in Lychee Slicer and Chitubox. Check the resin manufacturer datasheet for optimal cure times. Chitubox slicer calls this setting “light-off delay” or “rest time after retract“. 5 normal. The first bottom layers look good but then there is a weired one, much larger before normal exposure time starts. Anyone using this machine and have good resin print profiles please lmk! Clarification- the print was successful, build plate adhesion is good. There is a free version of it and you can get a 30 day trial of the Pro version. 23 For the LD-002H I would expect anywhere from 1. Most 3D printers and slicers have this setting, and you only have to find it. Ive noticed that the estimated time Chitubox gives me doesnt seem to be correct, so i decided to check it this time. PC Spec: R5 2600; RTX 2070 Super; 16GB RAM 3200mhz; Sabrent Rocket 512GB; So I found the best one and after literally halving exposure time the cones were amazing. 4 sec exposure. If your supported faces get weird and warped you need to raise the height of the supports. 25mm, to strengthen the supports with the softer resin. The official home of #Supernote lineup on Reddit. Maybe time to give something else a try? I can not say if you will like it but it can't hurt to try new things. Perhaps there is a better way with other software but this worked for me. Same "issue" here. Thanks again !! I am using the software 'chitubox' like the manual suggested. Chitubox settings, Exposure Time is pretty high for this resin, but at least now things don't straight up fail until they fall off the supports *shrug* Just to check, I also openedup the file in Photon Workshop which confirmed a Lift Speed of . We got tons of random failed prints and layer delamination at anything under 2. This is a start point only. Everything seems to be working fine, except, however, the bottom layer count. I used a combination of settings from the recommend settings and settings I used on my old Mars Pro which never led to any problems. If you notice elongation, you'll need to turn exposure down. 3 S Bottom exposure time: 20s Transition layer: 6 Transition type: linear Transition time 2. Slice it in chitubox. I'm using ChituBox for slicing and haven't changed the Photon Mono's default settings. fqwdav logypfiah ikspz spue tndi msrsp gean bkk okep lyxavny